Delhi - magic and mayhem

I don't think anyone can prepare you for the sights, sounds and smells of Delhi. I'd spoken to a few of my hardened traveller friends about what to expect, but this place goes beyond anything that my imagination could handle. Yesterday I arrived in the morning and was picked up by Sunil, my good friend Clare's driver. He was expecting to pick up two people - 'Gilly' and 'Challinor' - so it took a short while to persuade him that I was travelling alone. He kindly reminded me that I was not allowed to sit in the front seat and drove me to Clare and Andy's beautiful apartment in Sector 15, Noida, on the outskirts of Delhi.

The smog, dust and mass of contruction work going on is astounding. I have never been a place so polluted as this. And I now know why my friends have a driver because there is a very particular style of driving in India that would astound even an experienced Italian driver. The road markings are completely futile, and the car horn takes the place of indicators. Apparently there are 1000 more cars on the road every day in Delhi - it's a wonder the traffic moves at all.

Yesterday afternoon I tried to brave the streets of Delhi - my mission was to go into the centre and buy some mosquito repellant. I didn't get far. Delhi is so spread out so I knew the only way was to get a motor rickshaw. But after spending 15 minutes trying to cross the road, and another 15 trying to stop a rickshaw, I gave up. How pathetic!

Today was much more successful - mostly because Clare took the day off to show me around. We went to a mesmerising Sikh Temple, wondered around the streets and markets of Old Delhi, and got escorted out of the biggest mosque in Delhi. It was because I was filming in the courtyard and hadn't paid for the privelage. I'm learning.

I have approximately 43 mosquito bites, and a very sweaty back, but I'm feeling much more relaxed and happy than yesterday, mostly thanks to Clare and Andy. Tomorrow I'm braving it alone. Although I'm beginning to think that you're never alone in India.